Saturday 25 July 2015

Day 9 - Heron to Libby Dam 76.3 miles

Yesterday we rode in three states, Washington, Idaho and Montana, and two time zones. The jump forward an hour between Idaho and Montana hit us this morning, and we didn't get away until 0940.

We set out up route 56 through a stunning valley system, very alpine and craggy. We are truly out in the sticks now, passing areas named "Wilderness" with high towering peaks and dense evergreen forest. Yesterday the high screes falling into the lake below was reminiscent of the Wasdale screes, and there are some towns here with Cumbrian names.

People have been fantastic so far, but we had our first unpleasant run in today, with someone launching a full litre bottle from a car window in our direction. Luckily he couldn't aim. A little riled, the scenery soon calmed us back down.

It was 50 miles to the next town, Libby, and the eatery in between us and there where we planned to pick up lunch was not open until 2pm, so we had to push on. We wound up the valleys past rivers and lakes to reach Libby by 2:30pm very much in need of a good meal. A local diner would suffice.

We had a 2/3lb double stacked burger each, which we struggled to finish. We also tried a local
'home comfort food" according to the waitress, called biscuits and gravy. Expecting a soggy plate of digestives with  Bisto, we were pleasantly surprised with the real thing, a sort of bready dumpling with a thick sauce.

We stocked up on food as the next 70 miles have no services. From here we followed route 37 out to Libby Dam, taking a 40 minute detour up Fraser River when we took a wrong turn at the bridge. We were tiring by this point and back on track we pulled in at the next campground, a national recreation area with no water/ amenities, but with good access to the river. We got the tent up, took a dip in the river which according to a local was around 50 degrees F, whatever that means. Still full from the burgers, we are having a quick brew by the river, with some music. We plan to take advantage of our remote location and see the stars tonight.

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