Day 10 - Libby Dam to Fortine 67.5 miles

Today was a stark contrast to the morale lows of yesterday, despite the long stretches of road with no amenities and the plentiful and steep hills.

We set out north from Libby Dam around Lake Kukanusa. The lake side road climbed up and over a many spurs and down into re-entrants where creeks would flow into the Lake. The Lake itself was actually a large reservoir. We stopped at the dam for a water resupply after using the river water last evening. This would be the only opportunity to get water before Eureka in 55 miles. The Dam reminded us of something out of Goldeneye.

We have seen a number of eagles swooping down and picking fish out of the river this morning, with perfect precision. Other than the eagles we have seen groups of deer crossing the road, seeming unbothered by us on our bikes.

The last few days I have been having a few pains in my knee from an old running injury, however I am glad to say that with a saddle adjustment and cleat adjustments on my shoes, today has been relatively painless despite being the third hilliest day so far.

We kept a steady rate through the day and the mileage crept up. A lunch on the go meant we pushed through the area of no services without trouble, reaching Eureka by 3pm.

We took the Old Tobacco Road to Fortine from Eureka making it there by 5 after a couple larger hills than we were expecting.

At Fortine we are staying at a Saloon Bar who put us up in a field on the side, next to posts where the tie the horses to. Today has been raining on and off, and the main downpour came through as we got the tent up. It makes a difference from the heat of the last week; It barely crept above 20C today. We are getting well into the mountains now.

At the Saloon, with Elvis and various Country and Western tracks playing in the background, we have been sat speaking to the regulars, one of which we had a run in with on the way into town, where he hailed us from his Jeep. One local, Roy Don Maile, a US Marine for 30 years and 3 months leaving as a Master Gunnery Sergeant. He spoke of his time in a foxhole in Guantanamo during the time of Castro, as well as Vietnam, Okinawa and Tunisia. He offered us a warm shower but we are pushing on tomorrow towards West Glacier.